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Tennessee Walking Horse people are a pretty friendly bunch, and are always willing to help out with a bit of worthy advice.  Here are some of the tidbits we have gathered so far.  Please feel free to email us and add your two cents.

----- Original Message -----
steve whitmer
TWHbreeders@ yahoogroups. com
Friday, January 08, 2010 6:04 AM
Re: [TWHbreeders] Skunks

Equal parts dish soap vinegar and baking soda... add the baking soda last since it makes it foam...  I make a huge batch and put it on a dry coat since wetting the coat first causes the your eyes to water more...  let it sit for as long as possible.. rinse it off .Reapply if you want . I let them dry first becuase the horses tend to go roll out in the dirt while they are wet and I fugure that some of that dirt would remove some of that oily skunk residue as well. 

This recipe is not going to get rid of all the smell you can do it over again or shampoo with a shampoo like Vetrolin.... If it's spring and they are shedding, curry the coat after a few shampoos for lingering odor. I think horses tend to drop skunk odor pretty quickly.

The webiste that I got this recipe from said it could lighten the coat.. Not a huge concern for me.. I have used the same recipe for Chestnut, Palomino and Cremello manes and tails to brighten them up...It works on those tails to get the manure and urine out of them..

This has worked on my horses and my old Border Collie   
Walking Away A Winner

--- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: [TWHbreeders] Re: Animal care.......

We use electric warmers. There are some that run on propane if no elec. is available. Another trick if no elec. is available... fill a metal barrel with enough large rocks so it can stand on the bottom of the tank. Pour some old motor oil on the rocks and a little gas to ignite it. It is a smoky mess but it burns for hours and is inexpensive.  It is great for horses and cattle out on the range. If you
can't find enough rocks, put in cement blocks.


We rarely drop into the single digits, so I cannot imagine 17 below. How do you keep your animal's water supply from freezing?


--- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 10:29 AM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: FEI dressage horse abuse

A lubricated mouth is good, so a wet mouth is good. SOMETIMES horses drip slobbers because they cannot swallow properly due to constant pressure the bit places on their tongues. I believe tongue relief to be essential in a good bit. Favorite mouthpiece is the MB04 Myler mullen barrel, and I have that in most of my bits, curb and snaffle.

Salivation occurs not just from discomfort... when the horse "gives" at the poll nicely (as in a vertical face) there is some natural compression of the salivary glands under and just behind the jaw. This compression increases the drool and also increases the horse's need to swallow this drool. Watch a lot of the Arabian show horses... they are very drippy because they actually go behind the vertical with their face, and often have bits like a spade bit to "get" this face carriage that inhibit the horse's ability to swallow.

When a bit inhibits the natural swallowing action of the tongue the drool has nowhere to go, as Nate has pointed out. BUT I have horses that produce slobbery mouths "without a bit", so No the bit is not always responsible for wet mouths... sometimes yes, sometimes no, and the Myler bits do not make the wet mouths go away, it just gives the horse a way to deal with it.

Further... a walking horse (or other gaited horse) with a pronounced head nod at the flat walk has a natural back and forth movement of the tongue. Some horses almost appear to "lick at the ground" as they nod their heads... this also is why (I believe) you have many that will click their teeth as they nod... they are relaxing and responding to the natural movement as the head moves up and down. The tongue is attached, via ligaments to the shoulder support structure which further adds to this movement as they roll in their shoulders.... Actually Myler's website has a nice article that talks about this, complete with graphics.

So when you get a really big nodding horse, the movement of the tongue is more pronounced and it becomes even more important for them to have a free moving tongue so it does not inhibit the natural head nod. The free flowing (and freely swallowed) saliva keep the mouth wet and lubricates... all of which increases comfort.


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:15 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: Teaching a horse to park out-new member

Yes, I am hooked on gaited horses. They are so nice to trailride on. Ummm, no, I don't know how to teach a horse to park out on the
ground. Any info on this would be great!

denise rowland

Hi, new member..and congrats on your first walking horse..face it now you are hooked...teach your horse to park out from the ground first, then you transition that to parking out while mounted (usually the cues for parking while mounted are either a tap on each shoulder to move her feet out, or a slight rocking from side to side after you know how to teach one to park out on thee ground?

Ron and Maud Hamilton

Park: Stand on the near side and make sure the horse has all feet fairly side-by-side and not strung out in back. Take your foot and tap the back of the closest front foot (pastern area), usually with your foot and lean into the horse by the upper shoulder sort of gently pushing him to shift weight off that foot and move it forward. Say 'park'. It will take several taps to give him the idea and would help if someone else could lift the foot after you tap it and move it forward. Don't move the horse too far forward for each foot. Then sort of 'pull' the shoulder toward you (rocking the horse off the other front foot so it is easier to move that foot)and tap on the back of the other front foot. Practice every day and soon you can say 'park' and touch the upper shoulder area and the horse will park. Maud

----- Original Message -----
Jerry Sizemore
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Re: Teaching a horse to park out-new member

Maud gave a very good description of how to teach one to park. A couple of tips to add to what Maud posted that I have found helpful is: 1. Doing this on a slight incline helps, especially if the horse knows nothing about parking 2. Once you get the horse to park reward him with a bite of hay or grass or petting or something. It will make him want to park out when asked.


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:59 PM
Subject: tip and tidbits

I have used apple cider vinegar to remove a really heavy collection of mold from a saddle. Let the saddle dry and then use leather conditioner to finish the job. Turns out great.
Maud (Hamilton)

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] hobbles

"The soil is sandy and I do not want sand colic. How is the best way to teach them about hobbles?"

We ride in the wilderness areas a lot where it is considered bad form if your horse paws while tied to a tree. Gives the environmental fanatics evidence that horses are ruining the place. I teach all my horses to hobble.

I like to start them in the cross ties, tied to a hitching rail or on a high line. That way the first time they run into the hobbles they aren't trying to go anywhere just shuffle their feet a little. If you put the hobbles on a horse that is loose the first time more often than not they will try to walk off somewhere, catch on the hobbles and fall to their knees. I always worry they are going to hurt themselves that way. Putting them on a horse that is tied seems to eliminate that concern. After they get used to them while they are tied, I will lead them out somewhere with soft soil (your sandy soil sounds good) put the hobbles on then just back away from the horse. The most common reaction at this point is they just take little bitty steps or half hop where they want to go. There are those that will just stand and refuse to move, luring them with a bucket of grain just out of their reach will teach them to move a little at a time.

As someone mentioned hobbling a few times doesn't really teach them not to paw, just prevents them from pawing. If you really want to teach them not to paw you have to be willing to put the hobbles on every time you feed until the horse gets out of the habit of pawing.

I got tired of chasing down my feed pans that the pastured horses would fling around, or worse, the colts would pick them up with their teeth and drag them down in the woods where they are almost impossible to find. I ended up bolting them to a four foot square of rubber belting or stall mat. Drill a hole through the center of the pan and center of the rubber mat, use a couple of big flat washers to keep the pan hole from ripping out. That way the horse has to stand on the matting to reach the grain, and being bolted down the pan won't flip no matter how much they paw it.

Orygun Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron and Maud Hamilton
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] wound dressing

Another idea from the vets: When you have to wrap a barefoot hoof using
duck tape--Take four or five (depends on the size of the hoof bottom to be
covered) strips of the tape, put one vertically and gently on the outside of
a stall and then slightly overlap the next one on the first one and continue
overlapping with the rest of the strips. Then have the same number of
strips but run the strips horizontally over the middle of the vertical ones.
Remove the 'patch' from the wall and press really good on the middle area.
When you are ready to put the patch on the bottom of the hoof, the free ends
will hold the patch on while you add more duck tape around the upper part of
the hoof.

----- Original Message -----
From: Denise
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Getting Ready For Foaling Season

Those spring foals are right around the corner, and it's time to gather up the "foaling" kits..... I always keep at least a small bucket of mares milk plus by Buckeye on hand for emergencies (the best milk replacer I've found)....a bottle of Karo syrup (a jump start for the colt in case you have a slow one)...foal response (contains colostrum and nutrients) or a bottle of serramune IGg.......betadine solution..tetanus, fleet enema..clean towel...and something to tie up the afterbirth if the mare gets up and starts dragging it around (by watching on camera though, if you leave the mare totally alone after foaling she will stay down until it passes..and I have found that unless there are problems there is absolutely nothing that needs to be done in the first 2 hours after foaling, if the vaccines are up to date and the delivery has gone routinely)... even when I need to give a hand and help pull a colt, I usually just rip the sack and take it off it's head, make sure he's breathing ok and the rest on camera...I keep banamine onhand for later, just in case and oxytocin in case she doesn't pass the up my diet coke, coffee, some junk foods and a good book and settle into the lounge to watch the foalcam and a busy year I have been know to actually live there for weeks at a time...

Back in 1987, just a few days prior to the  last night of the Celebration, Black Diamond threw a shoe (band bolt broke) and it broke so much foot off that there was no way to get more than 2 nails into the foot. He wasn't in any pain but he definitely didn't have enough foot to hold the package on.
Two nights before the last night and the 15.2 and under WGC, my dad had a brainstorm and asked a dentist who had a horse there in training for some of the epoxy they make dentures out of and plenty of teeth brace wire and those small screws they screw into teeth.
After about 12 hours of shoeing and setting about 80 micro screws into the edge of the hoof and bigger screws into the pads, Dad put a nail on each side where he could get it and laced the hoof to the shoe and then built Diamond a fake foot out of denture epoxy.
Needless to say we were on the edge of our seats during the class but the shoe stayed on and Diamond went on to be crowned the 87 15.2 and under WGC.
Matt (Choate)

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: tidbits
From: Ronnie Fulton 
Subject: Re: [Performance TWH] Re: Tail bags
I always used laser sheen.  it's a little pricey, but worked wonders.  Took tangles right out of my gelding's tail, which was VERY thick and long.  I'd  spray it, work the mist in by hand, re-spray, let it sit for about 5 minutes, re-spray and then start brushing his tail out, re-spray and run a comb through it.  After everything was done, I'd braid it up, run the end of the tail through the top braid and put electrical tape on the tail.  I went through a roll of tape every second or third braiding!  I never had any problem losing hair and his tail grew and grew.  Same thing for the manes.  I'd spray them, brush them out, and then do like a French braid down the mane to keep it up and they grew out nicely.

From: SusanSunnybank
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [PerformanceTWH] Tailbags/oil and cond.?
I use MTG & LOTS of it!----My gelding has a very long, thick tail & without lots of MTG & other conditioner, I'd never be able to comb it out.  I don't wash his tail very often---I just load it up with MTG & & braid it, then tape it up or put it in a tail bag.  The tail still gets damp from him being hosed off after work-outs, but that's OK.  It will get some stall dust & dirt in it & I take it down & brush his tail out about every three weeks.  Point is----it doesn't hurt to leave lots of MTG in the tail & to leave it braided up for awhile.  You really don't need to wash a tail that much---the MTG will keep down the tailbone dandruff & it also makes it easy to brush out & wash without stripping the mane & tail of all it's oil.  I keep lots of MTG & creme conditioner in the mane too, & rarely actually wash manes---just spray off.  If the M&T are kept squeaky clean all the time, it will tangle alot more----at least that's been my experience.

----- Original Message -----
From: Deer Creek Walkers
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:18 AM
Subject: Fire the pawing machine

We have done several different things in an effort to reduce the "sloshing" of the feed. The most effective thing, but also the most time consuming, was to only put a small amount of feed into the dish at a time. When we later gradually added more and more feed back into the dish at one time, the sloshing behavior wasn't nearly as frequent. Kind of got them out of the habit.
We have also put a large rock in the feeder as the horse will have to try to work around the rock to try to get the feed and it occupies their mind trying to get to the food. I  haven't tried it, but another option is using a feed bag and attaching to
the halter.
For us it's been a lot more effective to try to distract from the unwanted behavior rather than punish it. Seems like you have to be extremely discreet and your timing virtually perfect or the horse associates the punishment with you and not the behavior.
Deeper feed dishes can reduce the amount of feed that actually hits the ground though it doesn't reduce the sloshing behavior itself. On the colts who persisted with banging the stall wall beneath the feeder while eating (that is so totally annoying when you are feeding!), we have moved them to a long trough outside and spread the food thinly. Again, they still sling their heads, but it's less than with the dish and less of the feed leaves the trough. And if they paw and slosh, they can dig a hole at the trough, but well placed mats can eliminate that.  Chuck also cut a cattle panel to fit over the top of one outside feeder that we have, and the horse must stick his nose down through the the holes to eat. He cannot sling his head from side to side to knock feed from the feeder. When cutting a panel like that you have to be careful that none of  the cut edges protrude over the edge of the feeder, though, or you'll have stitches to deal with. He attached ours to a wooden frame, then drilled the frame and feeder edges and attached with wire. It worked perfectly. 
We also use pieces of cut cattle panels to line our commercially made hay feeders in the stalls. Our hay is fairly fine and short and a lot was ending up underfoot in the stall. The liners keep the horse from inadvertently pulling big chunks of hay out and the extra hitting the floor.  It's really reduced a lot of hay wastage for us.
As far as learning to stand tied quietly by a trailer or anything else - if it's an adult horse I have no problem giving them the tree treatment. They can stand tied several hours a day to different trees and places around our farm and just learn that no amount of pawing, pushing on the tree, banging with their feet or anything else is going to help. They will learn to zone out and just stand there. This is best done after a good workout. It isn't fair to pull them out of the stall all fresh and expect them to want to stand quietly when they want to go play or burn off some energy. I will admit we have had to fill in some pretty good sized pits from all the pawing that initially goes on, but ignoring them is the best and easiest way.  They'll figure it out on their own.  If you teach your horse to stand with hobbles on, he can wear them safely, but it won't eliminate the way his brain is working, and you'll always have to keep the hobbles with you.
~ Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: Bansidhe Graphics
To: McDodi Farm
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 7:17 AM
Subject: BBC2's Daily Horse Tips of the Trade

We get horse tips here in the UK every day on BBC2 TV... today's is:

Take a piece of baler twine from a hay bale, and wrap each end in a loop around around your hands, to form a twisted length between them... use this instead of a sweat scraper to remove excess water and hair from your horse's coat after a bath or a hard ride. This works better than a metal sweat scraper because it fits into all the curves and crannies of your horse's body, and it doesn't ever scratch the hide like a metal scraper can. It's more comfortable for the horse, and it does a better job than the metal one. It's cheaper too.

Good, eh? : ))))

Here's another one: if you have a foal that is reluctant to nurse, scratch his neck along the mane and you will produce a natural suckling reflex... guide his head under the mare to the udder, and keep scratching.. your foal will nurse.

Some of these tips don't really apply to our horses, like the ones about pulling manes, but most are pretty good tips...

Judy Handel, Bansidhe Graphics

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 10:09 PM
Subject: Cold Weather Survival Tricks

I thought this might be a good time to share survival tricks since cold weather is here. Does anyone have any tricks for freezing temps?

With water troughs, I put a hay string tied to a stick (hang the stick off the side of the trough) in the water so I can pull the sheet of ice off in the morning without having to put my hands in the freezing water.

----- Original Message -----
From: Dodie Sable
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 10:25 AM
Subject: Cold Weather Survival Tricks

We float a corn cob in the buckets inside the barn, the horses push
them around while they're drinking, keeps the ice off the buckets. I
also have a metal colander with a handle (it's about the size a
baseball can fit in it) and I use that to scoop out chunks of ice.

For the plastic water tubs in the paddocks, we also use the string
and stick trick...but instead of a stick, we use two blocks of wood
that are chained together and have a chain attached to the fence - I
yank the chain, the blocks pull the ice up then I can scoop out the
chunks with the colander.

Other winter time tricks we use....

We spray PAM cooking oil on the soles of the feet before turning out
in heavy wet snow, prevents snowballs from forming those lovely and
dangerous high-heels.

We bank the sides of the pasture water trough with fresh manure and
cover with a plastic bag...the process of the manure working keeps
the water in the metal tank warmer and even in the deepest freeze,
we'll only get a skiff of ice across the top of it...easily broken by
a muzzle pushing on it.

We use cleanings from the straw bedded stalls to line over icy
paths. Nice thing is that it also helps to melt the ice and provides
traction when it refreezes. Works in high traffic areas for people
as well as horses. I don't recommend using cleanings from a shavings
stall for this as it doesn't breakdown as quickly as the straw so
when spring comes, the shavings leave a bigger mess to clean up.

November 17, 2004 3:38 PM
Subject: mayonnaise

Mayo is the best for a deep conditioner. I like to use it several days before a show and be sure to give a good show bath on the day of the class. The best results I have found are to use a generous handful in a bucket of water with a sponge and go all over the horse with it. That way you don't get too much residue.


Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:21 AM
TWH breeders -  Pride of Midnight Top 11

Here are the top producers in numbers of all time I think.

Ebony Masterpiece 3,410
Sun's Delight            2,641
Prides Generator     2,621
Midnight Sun            2,483
The Pusher               1,932
Merry Go Boy           1,852
Gen's Armed and Dangerous 1552 and rising daily
Pride Of Midnight    1,545
Carbon Copy           1,312
Prides Dark Spirit   1,281
Ebony's Senator     1279

Tuesday, November 25, 2003
Hello, if you use a floating or a sinking heater use a cage or it will melt your rubber mate/plastic tank. (I have a rubber mate tank only a small burn hole for sale!) I would make sure it is grounded. Here is what I do for my water in the winter. I get a large (giveaway UN-cracked) freezer. Take the lid off and fill it with water. I cover it 3/4 of the way with a sheet of plywood put a hole in the plywood and drop a heater in on the covered side (this keeps the horses from putting their nose on it and getting burned) put the cord through a small long PVC pipe (this keeps them from biting through the cord) They last years. Its my Recycling contribution!
Mary Malone

Tuesday, April 29, 2003 2:36 AM
Subject: West Nile Virus.......From another list

I attended a seminar on West Nile last week at Kansas State University. The horse information was given by Dr. Bonnie Rush, Clinical Sciences, KSU College of Veterinary Medicine. Just thought I would pass on some of the more pertinent and interesting information she presented. Feel free to cut and paste this email to any other forums or sites you wish. Refresh water containers 1 time per week. If you have large stock tanks put in goldfish or minnows to eat the mosquito larvae.  Light colored horses seem more susceptible and come down with the disease more frequently than dark colored horses. A horse in the evening in a wooded pastures gets approx 2000 mosquito bites per hour. If unvaccinated, they are 25 times more likely to get the disease and 8 times more likely to die if they get the disease than vaccinated horses. Approx 27% of the horses get protective antibodies without showing any signs. Old age and stress (i.e. stallions) increase the occurrence. Vaccinate 2
times per year after initial first time booster, so give in early spring and around July. Foals from vaccinated mares should be vaccinated at 3,4, and 6 months. Foals from unvaccinated mares should be vaccinated at 1,2,3, and 6 months. Cost for average recovery if they get sick - $1100-$1400. Cost if they go recumbent....$2500 and 70% of the ones that go recumbent will die from it. They saw no correlation between the vaccine and abortion or still birth but said an unvaccinated mare that contracted it was much more likely to lose her foal. Of the 55 cases that KSU saw this year, 5 were vaccinated and all 5 lived that were vaccinated lived.
Dr. Suzy

----- Original Message -----
From: Deer Creek Farm
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Parking out under saddle

Saddle him and practice parking him out with you standing there holding him. Take the stirrup in your hand and tap him in the area of his elbow/shoulder (will depend on personal adjustments and size of horse where the stirrups fall, but it won't matter) as you give him the voice command to park (whatever command you use). Do this on both sides. When you have him parking out well well using the stirrups from the ground, try getting on and use your foot in the stirrup the same way, using the voice command to park. You can also squeeze the withers of the horse both from the ground and while you are in the saddle if you'd like to incorporate that.
When giving this lesson at first, I'd do it in the same place each day so that he is mentally in tune to "lesson time". I wouldn't try parking him out from his back in a different setting until he had the lesson down really
well in his "park out" lesson spot. Hope this helps. If not, I'm sure someone else knows of a better way.
Good luck!
Mary :)
PS In the beginning, you may have to be pretty "obvious" about the stirrup tapping, but as he gets better, you will be able to reduce the signal to just slight movement and/or voice command/wither squeeze.

----- Original Message -----
From: Cyndy Edwards
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Wilson's Allen

Reread a 1940 magazine article I have about Wilson's Allen and came up with these horses by Wilson's Allen:

Victor Allen
Strolling Jim
Pride of Memphis
The G Man
Haynes Peacock
Nellie Gray
Wilson Allen Jr.
Wilson Allen Again
Melody Maid
Strolling Mary
Wilson Allen's Lady
Merry Legs III
Melody Maid
Knox Phagan
Carter's Allen
Strolling Sister

The article mentioned that Wilson' Allen did not live long enough to see the championships won by his great offspring.

Webmaster's Note:  For a complete list of the progeny of Wilson's Allen, click HERE.

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 9:05 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] aggressive filly

Hi, My friend needs some advice.  She has as TWH mare that foaled in a big pasture and wouldn't let people or horse near the filly until it was four weeks old.  Then the  mare started bringing it up every day, but the filly naturally didn't want to be touched.  My friend is trying to make friends with the filly, but when she tried to pet or scratch her, the filly tries to kick or bite the owner.  This is the owners first foal, there is a barn but no round pen.  Some of her friends said not to worry about it the filly will come around, while others said if needed, rope her foot and throw her down and get a halter on her.  I know that you all have had lots more experience than anyone here, so any advice will be appreciated.  Thanks for your help.


Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] aggressive filly


We USED to have a mare who wouldn't allow much contact with her babies, and I wouldn't get to do much with them until weaning.  Sometimes the colt would initiate contact out of curiosity and momma wouldn't have it, but the colts did a complete turn around during weaning.  A feed bucket can work wonders.  Instead of just putting feed out for them, teach them that they have to come close enough to you to get a bite out of the bucket.  Just settle for that for a few days.  As the colt becomes more relaxed with that arrangement, SLOWLY initiate a little petting with your free hand, and not around the head.  Start at their chest or neck area and work slowly with what the colt will accept.  It won't be long that the colt will think that's just a part of feeding time.  Try haltering the same way.  Let them get used to you rubbing it around on them at feeding time and slowly halter him.  I've even started them out leading by following me and the feed bucket around in the stall.  If they lead one circle around smoothly, reward them with a bite out of the bucket.  The more you tug, the more he'll lock up those front legs.  We can usually lead in both directions and stop on "whoa" in no time.  Make all of your sessions short and quit on a good note.   
Good luck,

Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 4:16 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: aggressive filly

I have had unhandled "wild" weanlings join-up with me in a small enclosed area. I have even used a 12X24 foaling stall for this. What I try to do is stand back towards their hip and butt just so they can  barely see me out the corner of one eye. Shouldn't be a problem since as you approach this filly in a enclosed area she will swing her butt at you. When you are in position behind her, slap your leg and cluck to her. Don't get too close or she will bolt off. As soon as she turns just a hair, take a step back and be quiet. You first have to get her head to get her trust and respect. This will take timing and patience but she will start to turn around fully and back-offing if timed correctly she will soon follow you around the stall of enclosed area. You really don't need to chase the filly around in a round pen to get this to work. If I can just get her to turn the head the first few days that would be good.,,,,,, mike

Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 1:38 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: aggressive filly
Lots of choices on this.  I wouldn't wait til weaning. What we do twice a day is take a bucket or something low and sit quietly in the stall while mom is eating and after a period the colt is to curious to stand not checking out the new thing in the stall. Don't make any fast moves and let it just smell you the first few times. You usually
over time can start stroking the neck and so on. We at this point put a foal halter on with a 12 in. grab strap. We only use the grab strap to keep them facing us and not turning butt end to us.  Hasn't failed yet and it takes patience and time. But the baby learns to trust and not be terrified. I agree roping and holding the foal down if it's this scared is not a good move. Remember horses are a flight animal and if left with little human contact fall back on that and fight when cornered. This baby is doing what is natural for being born and living in a pasture.  Wish your friend the best of luck and lots of patience.


Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: Horse AHolic

Hello, I AM a horse-aholic. I would like to welcome all of you to this month's online meeting of Horse-Aholicas Anonymous. You may be sitting there thinking that you are OK, and don't really need any help. It is not easy to realize that you are a horse-aholic, and even harder to bring yourself to a HA meeting for help. HA is here to assist you. I have some questions to ask to try to determine if you can be helped:

1. Can you say 'sheath' in public without blushing?
2. Do you know exactly what 'snaffle' means? (No, it is not a drink!)
3. Do you drive a truck with some type of towing package and/or dual rear wheel when everyone else you know drives a real car?
4. Do you have more than one type of trailer because you own horses?
5. Do you spend your holidays going to shows, sales, clinics, and seminars when everyone else goes on cruises?
6. Do you discuss things at the dinner table that would make a doctor leave in disgust?
7. Do you consider formal wear clean jeans and freshly scraped boots?
8. Does the inside of your home look like your interior decorator is 'State Line Tack'?
9. Do you often have barn boots on your front porch?
10. Is your mail made up primarily of breed magazines and horse catalogs?
11. Do your shirt pockets often contain bits of feed, hay, and empty syringe covers?
12. Do you worry about paying your monthly feed bill before you think of paying your electric bill?
13. When you meet a person, do you ask how many horses they have, and pity them if the answer is none?
14. Do you remember the name of a great-great-great grandsire when you can't remember your own Great grandfather's name?
15. Is your primary dream in life to breed the perfect foal?
16. Do you find non-horse people boring?
17. Is 99% of your e-mail about horses?
18. Do you have a collection of bits even larger than your collection of horses?
19. Does you halter collection include more than four foal halters, all the same size?
20. Do you know more than five people this list fits exactly?

If you answered YES to three of these questions, you are in pretty good shape. You will lead a long, dull life, and never call your mother and tell her "I'm in the hospital, but everything is fine! The horse is ok."

If you answered YES to 10, you are in serious trouble. Give in gracefully, and become a member of Horse-Aholics Anonymous now... You will qualify eventually anyway.

If you answered YES to 15 or more, you are incurable. My advice to those who, like me, are incurable is as follows.....Sit back, smile, read your email, and know that your life will always be filled with good friends and better horses, and it will never be boring!

----- Original Message -----
From: Empty Pockets Farm
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:11 AM

Subject: RE: [TWHbreeders] Re: colostrum in the freezer

I use a breast pump. Have one that is hand operated and one that uses batteries. Works great. I found this little tip when my vet loaned me his wifeís breast pump to use for a foal that could not nurse.

Althea Odom
Empty Pockets Farm

From: Hillcrest 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum

Absolutely right!  If I am going to save any at all it is the first day and sometimes the 2nd if mom has a lot, but I never go past the 2nd day. Guess if I thought I had to for some reason, I would, but I never have. And I always tell people to thaw it at room temperature, never in a Microwave. I have never had to use any, I have always given it away to people who have needed it. I have never been able to sell any, and would not even know what to ask for it. I know I have been told it is like Liquid Gold, being the lifesaver it is. I have had 2 people recommended by my (our) vet to call me because he has told them I may have some for them and this year I don't have any. I have one mare who will foal (hopefully) next year and she is quite the heavy milker, so I will do it again next year...just in case of Emergencies, I like to plan ahead, if possible!


From: Dodi Speece
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum

The first day has the best colostrum, quality tapers off after that, it can be heat treated but as far as I know it is not needed with equine milk. The second day would still help an orphan or one that is not on Mom real well, but the first milk is the strongest.
McDodi Farms
Quality Tennessee Walking Horses

From: Hillcrest 
Sent:  Monday, April 15, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum

Does anyone out there regularly save any of the mare's Colostrum for emergencies? I used to do this pretty much on a regular basis when I could do it, and it has helped or saved other foals more than once. How I do it is wash the mares udders and milk her out once a day for the first two days. You could  probably go for three, but I don't. And you don't want to take anything away from baby either. But I get a glass container (bowl or glass) and get what I can.  Try to keep it as clean as possible. I then take the Colostrum and transfer it into
Ziploc Baggies, noting the mare and date that it was collected and freeze it. I am sure others have different ways, but that's what I do. I believe it lasts a year or so. I don't put a whole lot in the baggies either, just a few ounces in each for quick thawing and none gets wasted that way.


From: Lynn Henschell
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Stallion manners?

I really like stallions. We have 3 now and I have had others in the past. Some made and some foaled here. If you are not going to use him for breeding in any substantial way, do the kindest thing you can do and geld him. You can breed to the best TWH's for less than it costs to care for him in one year. Failing that, have a great deal of respect for what nature intended for them to do. Put him outside 24/7 and let him be a stallion. Let him oversee the mares and foals and the activity on the farm. Don't isolate him.  Keep him on a schedule. Work him, ride him, channel that energy into something positive.  Use him for breeding in the same spot every time and keep the routine the same so he'll know exactly what is expected of him. Correct him firmly and promptly and let it go, don't pick at him or put him in situations that provoke confrontations.  Don't let people handle him or ride him who are afraid of him. Don't let macho guys ( or girls) do anything with him. Those people who think it is cool to be able to handle a stallion and try to show off with them eventually get hurt. Really the kindest thing is to geld them.

From:  Brenda L. Byers
Sent:  Tuesday, July 17, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject:  [TWHbreeders] Parking

I wouldn't pinch both sides of the withers. I usually touch them an inch or two below the withers on one side or the other depending on which leg I want to move. My hubby makes the mistake of taking his hand and covering the withers and squeezing, I think this confuses the horse.

We start out our young horses parking right before they are let out of the stall to play or right before graining. They soon figure out that if they park they get something in return. Plus, when they are under saddle I don't get off until they park. Again they can relate a treat to
parking. When they park, I get off. 

One other problem I have had with young colts is that they will try to move their hind legs in when you push their front legs out. Standing them up hill will help, they tend to keep their back legs still when standing on a hill. Stand them on a hill, set their hind feet, then set the front feet. If they move, reprimand immediately then reset the feet. If they stand for just a few seconds pet them and let them know they are doing good. Each time make them stand a little longer. 

Just sharing my experiences! IMO, I love a parked horse either in the ring or on the trail. I'm only 5'2" so parking is a must around my house.


From:  (Fanella Wood)
Subject: pesky mosquitoes

Here is a good thing for the summer, for those people who like to sit and enjoy the out of doors, but don't like those pesky mosquitoes. I found it on gardening forum:
 Put some water in a white dinner plate and add just a couple of drops of Lemon Fresh Joy dishwashing soap. Put it on your patio. I don't know what attracts them, the lemon smell, the white color, or what, but mosquitoes flock to it, and drop dead, and fall into the water, or on the floor within about 10 ft. I always have some problems with mosquitoes getting into my big old house, so I set up one of these traps in my kitchen, on the counter, a few days ago. Works just super.

From: Lynnea LeBreton
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:07 AM
Subject: [Gaitedtexas] with Lotsa MAYO!!!!

Old Trick.... after clipping spread a few huge handfuls of Mayonnaise all over him. The egg and oils will make him shine. Let it sit for a few hours and then shampoo off. Don't laugh, it works!

From: "Gary Clark" 

Thought you'd like to know about a really useful new web page that demonstrates how to trim and shoe horses to help improve intermediate gaits. This is EXCELLENT information, taken from Brenda Imus' book, GAITS OF GOLD.

You'll find it at:

Have a smoo-oo-ooth day!
Lee Wilson, Outreach Coordinator
CrossOver Publications 

From: Anna Barwick

Hey All,

This is a neat web site regarding training, riding and ground work. It touches on most of the NH techniques and has links for more info. Includes TTEAM, Parelli, etc. 

Re: trailering foals

(Where is Janet? She has the best method for baby trailering I've ever seen.... hauled a weanling from PA to Florida... with a video camera in the trailer and the TV screen in the truck so they could see her.... really cool.)
If anyone needs to know how my husband rigged the camera/TV setup let me know and I'll ask him for instructions. We didn't buy anything special except some cable and connectors. We used our video camera and our little Sony B&W Watchman TV. The truck and trailer are still wired so anytime we need to use it we just put the camera on the mount in the trailer and plug in the TV inside the truck.
It was wonderful to be able to watch Latte' and know how she was doing. It also helped us make good time since we didn't have to stop as often just to check on her (which would have been every 10 minutes LOL). I learned some really interesting things watching her for 1,000 miles. We have a 2 horse slant Featherlite. We removed the divider and used the trailer like a box stall. Latte' wasn't tied. She rode most of the time sideways directly over the trailer axle. When she felt braking she would turn and face the rear. We were on some bumpy under construction highways in Virginia and it was very interesting to see that she had a smoother ride than we did. I would have thought just the opposite. One other thing I would recommend is to have someone haul you in the trailer for a short distance and notice the noise level. I found several things that were banging and making much more noise than I would have imagined. The tie rings were really bad. I ended up wrapping them.

From:" Mike Aldredge" 
Subject: Mares with foals out together

Hi. It has been several years since I did that, but here's what I did. Now, mind you I only had two mares w/foals to worry with, but I surely did not let them run with any other horses while they had their foals w/them. So one mare delivered about 2 weeks before the other one. The second mare and foal was put in with the other mare and foal when the newest foal was about 1 week old. The mare w/ the newest foal kept it away from the other foal for about another week. No harm came to either and all went well between the mares. They were accustomed to each other anyway.

Subject: Spurs/riding crop

Before you use whips and spurs (and I use both), be certain that you CAN use them. If you wear spurs, you want to be able to use them when you WANT to use them, and not extraneously. Take lessons (longe line lessons are best.. (heehee) so that your leg learns to stay put and quiet, and you learn to use the rest of your leg before your spur gets involved. In other words, you want to be able to use the spur only to reinforce a cue that the horse ignored. So... if you want the horse to do something, you give a slight cue with your leg. If the horse responds appropriately, that's all there is to it. If he doesn't respond, you ask again with a stronger leg. If he STILL doesn't respond, then a tap with the spur is in order... and after that the whip gets involved. Some TWH trainers use those big sharp evil spurs and they pull their legs back and down and stick their heels up to jab the horse in the belly. That will not produce a happy, willing horse. It will produce a horse that goes hollow, resentful, and in pain.


On Foals Chewing Tails
From: "Karen Neal-Naylor"

There is a product I used to get at the pet stores in Oregon, called Bitter Apple, I used it on my dogs to stop them from chewing on themselves. Believe me it tastes really nasty, and they won't try to keep chewing! <G> If your local pet stores don't carry it, I bet they could order it for you.

Michelle Marble 
(On fitting saddles)

I always use a pad of some sort, regardless of the saddle type. NEVER put synthetic materials on your horse, ONLY use cotton or wool pads or blankets. Synthetics can cause hot spots. Most people fit the saddle TOO far forward. When girthed, the girth should be at least a hands with behind the elbow of the horse. Be sure that any metal on the girth (rings on western, buckles on dressage girths) do not end directly behind the elbow. The girth should be long enough to clear the elbows on both sides, but not so long that you can't tighten effectively. Always have leather billets on at LEAST on side of the saddle (some saddles have web billets on both sides). Web has no give, and in a dire emergency, leather will break before injuring your horse too badly (i.e., say a stirrup gets caught in a pole or tree branch or something and the horse is running, the leather will break before your horse does!).
Always fit the saddle to look LEVEL on the horse's back. If the back of the saddle is higher than the front, then the tree is too wide, and the saddle is lying on the withers. If the saddle is higher in the front, then you either have too narrow a tree for the horse, or the horse has a dropped back (age, broodmares, extremely high withers, etc), and you will either need a wider tree (check the fit at the shoulders/withers) or, if the horse has a dropped back, you will need a bump pad to raise the back, but not the front. You should be able (after the saddle is girthed) to insert your fingers between the horse and the saddle at the shoulders WITHOUT feeling a pressure point (i.e., the fit should be snug because you have tightened the girth, but you should be able to put your hand ANYWHERE between horse and saddle and feel uniform snugness, but NOT a pinching point. Always check the BACK of the saddle. Too often we check the wither/shoulder area, but forget to check the back of the saddle. Some horses and saddle trees do NOT mix in the back. Often I find a saddle that drops right back on the rear of the horses back and when the person sits in the saddle, it just exasperates the problem and the horse is in excruciating pain. Remember, we want our horses to be rewarded for rounding their back, not punished. The best money you can spend is on quality tack that fits your horse correctly. I would rather see the horse comfortable, and the rider miserable, than the other way around. Buy for the horse, not the rider (if you have to chose) and best option is buy a saddle that fits both. I just learned recently that many of my past discomforts in the saddle were due to trying to ride a saddle that was too small for ME! I knew they fit the horse right, but couldn't figure out why the saddle hurt me, after all, it was supposed to be a quality saddle, and then discovered that it was because it was REALLY too small, and I did not realize it! Got a larger saddle, and have been a lot happier! On western saddles, try to find one where the girth ring (rigging) is not directly below the pommel of the saddle. Many western saddles are rigged there, and this is a great source of discomfort for the horse. The rigging should actually be an inch or two BEHIND the pommel to reduce pressure points on the horse.

From: Lynnea LeBreton
Subject: scours & scalding
A good suggestion.... prior to the actual start of the Foal Heat, put a nice thick layer of Vaseline on the foals cheeks, hocks & underside of tail. It'll help prevent the scalding and hair loss from the scours. ol' trick of mine,  

From: Becki Drozd
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 8:33 PM
Subject: on taming a foal

I would put the foal in the stall, too, and work with it there. How Dar was saying to handle it was good. You must always get the colt to face you--and when it does make sure you reward it my being real still and just stand there. If it sticks it's butt at you at anytime, you have to get it to turn around and face you. If it has a tendency to kick, I would take a crop or something in with me, any time it turns it's butt at you, I would tap it on the butt and tell it no--when you tap it the colt will move. So, if it moves and faces you, you must reward it--so be still and stop moving--don't stare at it in the eyes, either--any time it moves forward to you, even a hint of forward, reward it by stepping back slightly. this takes the pressure off the colt and gives it comfort. Never chase it---chasing creates the most damage. Soon it should feel comfortable enough where you can start attempting to catch it up, by this I mean to at least get close to it. So by now you should be able to enter the stall, the colt will still probably move away from you, but turn around and look at you. The next part is trying to go to the colt and touch it---it will try to get away, but if it's not too vigorous (meaning it doesn't throw a super-duper fit with rearing and all that), you stay with that colt till it stops and when it stops, immediately stop with it, pat it and reassure it that you aren't going to hurt it. Start in that safe zone---withers, shoulders, along the back. Find the spot it likes to be rubbed the most--this may take a while. Eventually you will want to be able to enter the stall, have the colt turn and face you and when you ask it to come to you it will. Then you start getting it de-sensitized all over it's body--you approach and retreat with any area that is touchy. Picking up the feet will be last--they won't let you pick up their feet unless they trust you. As soon as you pick up a foot and the colt relaxes, let the foot down. This is at least a start!

Becki Drozd

once it is real comfy with you, turning it out with a horse that loves to come running to get patted is the best, like someone else already said. it will learn by example

----- Original Message -----
From: Jana Anderson, DVM
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: another tip

In spite of all of our own biases (I have them too), research has proven that (at least with thoroughbreds) those that are started and raced at 2 or slightly younger are sounder as 5 year olds than those horses that were started as 3-4 year olds. It has to do with bone stress and subsequent increased bone strength. Keep in mind that these horses were on balanced nutrition, and that many of our breeds' young horses aren't fed properly (especially when it comes to mineral ratios and the tendency for feeding excessive carbohydrates), thus the problems we see the most of (OCD, physitis, etc.) aren't directly due to early riding, but can be worsened by it. Good genetics, conformation, proper hoof care and angles, and nutrition are the key factors when it comes to preserving soundness. After that, common sense tells us to avoid things that could load their joints/tendons unevenly, i.e., uneven ground and tight circles. And, remember the 25% rule--you and your tack should not weigh more than 25% of your adult horses' weight. It should be less for immature horses.
Jana Anderson, DVM

----- Original Message -----
From: Janet Sides
Sent: Nov. 6, 2002
Subject: Rain Rot

I use 4 oz Lysol cleaner in 2 gallons of warm water, sponge it all over the horse and leave it on. Repeat daily for a week and also clean their brushes and saddle pads in the same solution. I have had great success with this for many years. It doesn't dry their skin out and make them itch, and it doesn't stain them weird colors.

----- Original Message -----
John H. Lewis
Sent: Nov. 6, 2002
Subject: Rain Rot
Anyone out there suffering from rain rot? Your horses that is. With two plus weeks of wet weather, 6 out of 8 of mine have had some or a lot. If yours are in the same situation, below is a recipe that seems to work well. It has cleared it up on my horses.

1/2 cup of vinegar
1/2 cup of iodine
1/2 cup of rubbing alcohol
1 Tablespoon of Clorox

Happy trails, John

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